Sunday, July 27, 2014

Thursday, July 24--A trip to the Beach

Our original plan, and the reason we came to Southwest England in the first place, was to visit Port Isaac, home to where they film the PBS/BBC television show "Doc Martin".  The scenery steals the show from the actual plot.  It's gorgeous.  But sometimes reality intervenes with best laid plans.  GPS showed that it was a 2.5 hour drive from Bristol to Port Isaac, and after our adventure on the roads the day before, I (Kathy) at least, was reluctant to attempt such a lengthly drive.  So I looked carefully on the map for somewhere closer where we could find a beach or at least see the ocean.  I found a city on the map that had a beach and looked at the reviews, which sounded good.  So we got directions, downloaded them on the iPhone and headed out to Weston-super-Mare.  It was supposed to be only 22 miles and 34 minutes away, mostly "motorway" (freeway) as opposed to "carriageway" (kind of like our hiway 99). 

The road led down the Avon to a high bridge and a meeting with the M-5 that led to Weston.  Following Siri's reassuring voice, we went down the M-5, took an exit, went through at least 7 roundabouts ("at the round about, take the 2nd exit to......") and finally came to the most touristy beach town I have ever seen since I was last at Seaside Oregon.  Not exactly the secluded walking beach we had looked forward to.  Not only was it noisy and filled with people, shops, carnival games, rides and other money grabbing activities, the tide was out and other than a strip of sand that was filled with sunburned Briton's there was a mile of mud past which you could barely see the waves.  Yuck!
The Grand Pier

Sand, then mud and then, a long way out there, the sea

Lots of Britons getting...... tanned????

Or walking along the Promenade

Or finding lots of ways to spend money

We made the best of it and ate our picnic lunch perched on a rock wall next to a long concrete path that looked just like the Promenade at Seaside.  Watching the people of every age and description stroll on the path was very interesting and amusing. 


You could ride a donkey on the beach.....no thanks!

Eating lunch and watching the parade

Finally we decided to try and find a more secluded stretch of sand I had read about, appropriately called Sand Beach.  We headed back to the car and (of course) stopped for ice cream on the way.  We were asking the shop girl if she knew how to get to Sand Beach when we were interrupted by a kind gentleman who said he thought he knew the way.  We stepped out of the shop and had a wonderful conversation with Malcolm and his wife Catherine.  It turned out we were about the same age as us and we had a lot in common.  Malcolm is a policeman whose passion is woodworking (he showed us some of his work with pics on his iPhone) and Catherine is a gardener.  We must have talked to them for over a half hour.  This is pretty much how it has been in our time in England.....meeting lots of very nice, interesting and friendly people.  

Catherine and Malcolm

After we parted with our new friends, we headed north to try and find Sand Beach.  What followed was just short of a disaster.  We found ourselves on very narrow streets with cars parked on the sides and cars coming at us when there was barely room for one car.  We drove through residential neighborhoods this way, getting higher and higher on the headlands.  The view was great, but the driving intimidating. 

Then I saw a sign for Sand Beach and directed Jeff onto literally the most awful drive we have ever been on.  The road was so narrow, it was barely a path.  On each side was vegetation, trees, bushes, even blackberries and no shoulder.  Every few yards a car would come barreling around a corner coming straight at us with no room to pass.  We played chicken, deciding who would scratch up the side of their car to let the other pass, by sheer hutzpah. Jeff was sweating bullets as I mopped his brow.  If he took his hands off wheel or his eyes off the road, we were done for.   My admiration for Jeff's driving skills increased as he had to keep shifting, maneuvering, and dodging cars, garbage trucks, motorcycles, bikers and walkers.  There were no turn-offs and no escape.  It was simply "Forward or Die". Finally we came to a "car park" and saw the promised beach!!  But sadly it was just like the beach at Weston--a little sand, a lot of mud and no ocean.  What a disappointment.  I felt awful that I had led us on such a horrible journey.  We decided to head for home. 

Unfortunately, we had lost Siri and had to find Bristol on our own, which we managed to do.  But it was rush hour.  After a near fatal encounter with a city bus, we decided it was time to turn in the car and cut our losses.  We managed to find the Avis, said goodbye to the Vauxhall and the chipmunks inside the engine and walked back toward the hotel.  Boy was it good to be on foot!!!!  (sidenote:  miraculously, the Vauxhall did not have a scratch on it when we turned it in!!)

We stopped to sample the local cider (delicious).  We sat down with three men who had just graduated with Master's Degrees in Documentary Film making and were celebrating.  We chatted with them while we drowned our sorrows and quenched our thirsts.  Again, an interesting conversation with really nice people. The cider and discussion mellowed us enough to go home, take our nap and shower and enjoy another lovely evening in Bristol.

The new graduates--and our new friends

Wednesday, July 23--Car trip to Stonehenge and Salisbury

We were up early, dressed and had a wonderful breakfast at the hotel.  The night before, I had made a reservation at Avis to pick up a rental car at 10:00.  We were there early and Adrian, the auto mechanic had just finished feeding the two chipmunks that powered our rental, a 2013 Vauxhall.  The Vauxhall is a British car, made in Germany and is powered by a 1.2 liter engine with a 5 speed manual transmission.  I later found out that Vauxhall was from the Celtic language and loosely translated means, "piece of crap".

Me and the POS Vauxhall

Well Adrian gave me his patented 2 minute training lecture pointing out where the brake pedal was, (as if the car could reach speeds where you would actually need a brake) and how to turn on the radio - you know, important stuff.  We had no GPS so we got directions on how to get out of town, "Well Mate, ye goes dwn to the fork and ye beer right and go on past the people standing by the fl'wers and ye goes about a mile or trey till ya pass by a y'low sign an then..."

Well, I strapped in, adjusted my mirrors, said a few prayers to God, Yahweh, Mohammed and any other deity I could think of that might give me an edge.  So there I am driving on the wrong side of road, shifting with my left hand, looking to my right for a rear view mirror that is on my left, trying to interpret road signs and squiggly lines on the road that make absolutely no sense and watching Kathy white knuckle it as we wind our way through the English countryside.  I also find that as nice as the English people are in person, when they are behind the wheel, they turn into maniacs who give road rage new meaning.  According to Adrian, getting out of town and onto the A4 was a short 5 minute drive and sure enough, 20 minutes later, we are heading out on the countryside, past Bath, on to Warminster and Kathy's knuckles were relaxing from white to a nice shade of ecru.

We made it to Stonehenge, had lunch and then went to view the stones that have stood silent sentinels over the land for the past 4500 years.  When walking around them, I could almost feel the echo's of men and women long gone calling out, abandoned drums, their beat still pulsating over the eons if you listen closely.  It is truly a powerful site to visit, a place where even a large crowd automatically speaks in hushed whispers.  I could ramble on for pages but I can only hope the following pictures do more justice to this wonder of wonders.


The traditional pose

In all it's glory


How did those ancient people, without any metal tools, move and carve those huge stones.....and why....

Even more puzzling....they are out in the middle of nowhere.  Just farms of sheep and flat land



We were pretty tired but decided to go on and visit Salisbury, a town about 20 miles past Stonehenge.  This was another fine decision on our part.  Salisbury is a treasure to behold.  A town whose roots begin over a 1000 years ago and has been able to age gracefully.  The cobblestone streets wind past buildings that were old when our Republic was brand new.  We had a cold brew in a bar that was probably over 600 years old.  Everyone was friendly, helpful and added to the experience.

Eels anyone??

Great place to stop for a quaff


We strolled through the town, a town that was in the constant shadow of the steeple rising from the Salisbury Cathedral.  We did not know it at the time but one of the four existing original copies of the Magna Carta resides in the Cathedral.  This is a document from 1250, a document that was over 500 years old when the Declaration of Independence was first conceived.  The Cathedral itself was a treat for the eyes and ears as the organist was playing a few rifs that could straighten your backbone and allow you to hear Angels singing.  The floor is covered in stones marking the last remains of folks that passed on in 1300.  Lots of antiquities but again like all the churches we visited in England, it was a working Church, one that still serves the people.

Olde City Centre
Too big for one picture

Detail on the cathedral

Gargoyle


Where the priest stands

The cloisters

The Magna Carta





Walking back to the car, we passed through neighborhoods and scenes that looked like they belonged on postcards.  We did stop to reward ourselves with milkshakes for a day well done.

A typical English garden
Instead of "Dollar Store"

Sunset over Salisbury

We then headed back to Bristol with the sun in our eyes.  My spirits and energy were flagging so we stop at the Bengal Bear for dinner - Indian cuisine whose main attempt at ambiance revolves around playing traditional Indian music which sounds (at least to me) like someone who got their privates caught in a wringer.

The break worked as I had renewed vim and vigor and was ready to handle that final 20 miles that separated me from my comfy bed and pillow.  Well Kat is navigating and all of the sudden, I hear her say, "Oh darn" or something in that genre.  We were going the wrong way and had gone about 20 miles out of our way.  We turned around and we're cruising back, trying to calm each other, trying to minimize the faux pas and concentrate on the positive when two cops standing beside the road motioned me over to ask me, "Hey mate, you know how fast you were going?"  Well, Kat and I put on a Academy Award performance starring in "The Bumbling Lost Tourist".  Not only did we talk ourselves out of a ticket, we had the officer give us detailed, concise, understandable directions, (a first in England) on how to get back to Bristol.

We worked our way home, parked in a underground garage and trudged up to our room for sleep, blessed sleep.

Friday, July 25, 2014

Tuesday July 22--Taking a (train to) Bath

Today we decided to use our BritRail passes to go to Bath, an ancient city just a 15 minute train ride from Bristol.  Our goal was to see the Ancient Roman Bathhouses and other sights of this historically significant city.  We were tired from our long walk seeking money yesterday, so we took a taxi to Temple Meads Station and soon were on the rails with a lot of other travelers.  It was a short but scenic ride.  When we got off, we saw a spire in the distance and were told it was Bath Abbey.  The Roman baths were right behind it, so we set off on a nice stroll passing old brick and stone houses, walking over cobblestones and avoiding buses filled with tourists. In seeing Bath, I was grateful to Kathy for having us stay in Bristol rather then Bath.  Lots of tourists is an understatement, paying for the privilege of hanging out in Bath, ludicrous.
OK, yeah, just too easy


The Abbey is an awe inspiring building,  The spire soared into the blue sky and the thick walls of stone surrounded giant stained glass windows.  It was my first experience viewing such an ancient church.  The Abbey was built in the 1400's and is still being used in modern times.  I can't begin to describe it, so here are some pictures.

Beautiful Bath Abbey


Volunteers polishing the woodwork, I later found out that these two women are affectionately called, "The Dusters"

Amazing stained glass wherever you looked

Crypts and plaques commemorating people, some gone for 600 years


The roof of the Abbey was also an amazing sight for the eyes





The thing that amazed me was the Abbey is a working Church, not just a museum for antiquities.  All the people we met working there were volunteers who had a genuine love of the Abbey.  There was humor and whimsy mixed with the spiritual.  Having had the opportunity to visit was a privilege and an honor and I say this in all sincerity.

After being inspired by the beauty of the Abbey, we decided to take a tour of the ancient Roman Baths.  We paid our money and were given an audio guide that had information about all the sights we were about to see.  We pressed the buttons and a woman's voice with a distinctly British accent told us details about Baths.  They contain the only natural hot thermal springs in England and were built and rebuilt starting in about 900 AD by the Romans who invaded England.  Fascinating sculptures and buildings were excavated through the years.  The water is green because of algae in the water, but in ancient times, the baths were covered and the water would have been clear.  They were built so well that the main bath does not leak after all these years.



The happy travelers
Looking down on the baths from a walkway built in the 1800's for viewing

The hot springs emerging


Some of the ornamentation that decorated the entrance to the Baths

Solid gold statuary

After viewing the Baths we were tired and hungry, but all the restaurants nearby catered to tourists and were too crowded and too expensive.  So we took some back streets and came to a Pub, Sam Wellers,  that promised good food and drink and went inside.  The food was great as promised and the bartender was really friendly.  Jeff talked him up and was soon invited behind the bar for a picture......Jock made a joke that he would be willing to sell the pub for a couple hundred thousand quid and he could stand back there on a regular basis, Jeff declined the kind offer.

My new best friend Jock

Forward our mail to...

We made our way back to the train station doing a bit of shopping and just enjoying the glow of a day well spent.  We made our way back to Bristol, washed up, washed clothes and washed down dinner with some of Britain's finest.  Below, a few more pictures of the day....

I just found this funny

Kat's love of ice cream is getting away from her

A street performer doing some Clapton

Another street performer