Inverness to Perth--A long drive rewarded

The Mercure Hotel was hardly worth the effort to find it.  We had been having good luck with our lodgings up until then but the Mercure had a hard double bed pushed up into the corner, not enough light or plug-ins and an expensive breakfast.  Every hotel bathroom has both a plugged up sink and a noisy fan, but the Mercure's sink didn't drain at all the the fan was like a jet taking off.

After a night of tossing and turning, we endured another spate of roundabouts and left town.  Inverness probably is a nice place to hang out, but we had places to go.  Namely, big on our bucket list, was to see St. Andrews, both the legendary golf course and the ancient town.  Looking at the map, I threw a dart to find a town to stay in on the way and it landed on Perth, just an hour away from St. Andrews.  We hastily booked a BnB before we left.

Luckily, the road to Perth, the A9, was easy to drive.  It was almost a freeway with actual shoulders   and passing lanes every few miles.  Part of it was even a four lane "carriageway".  It led through the Grampion Mountains and Cairngorms National park.  The scenery was stunning, with rolling hills of green and exits to numerous castles, distilleries and campgrounds.

View through the window of the scenery on the way to Perth

We got to Perth in record time and started looking for a laundromat so we could cross that item off our list before getting to the BnB.  Meanwhile we stopped downtown and found a townie cafe that served delicious Scottish food.  We inquired about a place to wash our clothes, but got no results, so decided to ask the BnB proprietor when we got there.  The Bnb was a cute house on a busy street close to downtown.

We got a warm welcome from our hostess, Caroline and were shown a wonderful room with a king size bed, lots of plug ins, a fully equipped bathroom with a sink that drained, and water, coffee and snacks available.  We really lucked out!!  When we asked about a laundromat, Caroline insisted that she would do our laundry for us, wouldn't be talked out of it and wouldn't take any money for it.  We were in total shock.  What a great relief!  Also, Caroline gave us a map of Perth with attractions and restaurants marked that were all within walking distance. 

So we gratefully gave her our laundry, and took off walking toward a castle and museum for the "Black Watch" Scottish Regiment. The Black Watch regiment has been around since the 1600's and have served bravely, honorably and with distinction.  The museum was very well done with too much to read and view.  We departed feeling like we had just left hallowed ground.

The Rose Guest House.....big and roomy

House on the walk to the Museum/castle

Black Watch castle

Memorial to the Guard

Rows memorials to fallen soldiers of the Black Watch

After the amazing display at the Black Watch museum, we walked through a huge park and athletic field complex (about the size of 15 football fields and I may be underestimating) to a path by the Tay River which flows lazily through the town.  The sun shone down on us as we walked with bikers, joggers, giggling teens, and many other walkers, with and without their dogs.  The smell of fresh mowed grass permeated the air.  We stopped at a pullout with benches and a view of the river and houses across the way.  Just when we thought the scenery could not get more scenic, and were counting our blessings to be in such an amazing place, two swans lazily swam past.  Wow!!  It was truly a delightful stroll where we could feel every one of our nerve endings relax.

Walking across the Rugby field

Looking toward town

The wonderful long walk under blue skies

The Tay

And the perfect swans

Dogs were swimming.  One reminded us so much of Freddy, it brought a tear.

The bridge over the Tay into downtown Perth

Another memorial to fallen dead during WW1

At the end of the park lay the edge of old town Perth, sparkling clean, well maintained and filled with engaging store fronts.  By happenstance, we stumbled on "The Bothy Bar", a restaurant that Caroline had recommended.  She had told us to flash her business card to enjoy a 20% off dinner.  We were not disappointed by our dinner in any way and Kathy is becoming a Scotch whiskey aficionado.

Ready to try some more scotch

Church on our way home

We strolled back through the park which was now filled with every age/sex of soccer and rugby players.  Bikes, joggers, dogs, and walkers and every possible combination were enjoying a mild autumn early evening.  Upon our return, we were beyond pleased to find all of our laundry clean and folded.

Perth was one of those stops where you don't know what to expect, only to find any expectations completely surpassed.

Our wonderful hostess Caroline

From Oban to Inverness--Lochs galore

The sun was shining brightly as we left Oban after a hearty breakfast at the BnB.  Our goal was to drive the entire "Great Glenn" which is a long valley filled with lakes (lochs) that were formed by a giant glacier.  The Glenn runs from southwest to north east and ends in Inverness.  The inventive Scots also put canals and locks between the lochs so that there is a water passage all the way from one end to the other.  We drove over several one lane bridges spanning inlets and soon found ourselves on the shores of Loch Linnhe.

Jeff here - Driving through the Scottish highlands was easy on the eyes.  Around every turn lay amazing vista's, multi colored mountains that spanned the horizon, 59 shades of green, lochs that make Dorena, where we park our boat, look minor league, and flowers everywhere  Let's just say it was an enjoyable car cruise.

The only issue was driving on the left.  The roads were built from wagon tracks left from the 19th century.  Narrow? Not really as long as you are comfortable with a 14 inch margin of error on either side.  This is not an issue until you have a city bus, semi truck or a piece of farm machinery that spans one  and 1/2 lanes on a blind curve.  Choices are somewhat limited to hitting the curb or....well dying.
We chose the curb on more than a few occasions.

The intrepid driver.  Successfully avoided all hazards except the occasional left curb

Narrow with no shoulder

What happens when you hit the curb too hard.  This couple we met had to wait 5 hours for a tow.

We stopped at Fort William for a much needed break from the road where my knuckles almost lost their pale sheen and my pits dried out - yes, I will cop to fear.  Fort William was a picture postcard town.  Lots of cobblestone and old store fronts.  We stopped for coffee, (make mine decaf as I didn't need any more jitters) and enjoyed the locals speaking with such a strong Scottish accent that most words were indeterminate but all was harmonic.

A nice walking mall in downtown Fort William

This little boy really wanted to drive

Jeff meets a friend

After Fort William, we continued up the Great Glen and past Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in Scotland.  We stopped at a roadside memorial to fallen Scottish soldiers who had trained in the area.  It was a grand panorama of scenery from the hill where the memorial had been placed.

Ben Nevis

We cruised up Loch Ness with an eye out for Nessie.  No Nessie but lots of fellow tourons on the same mission.  We stopped at Drumnadrochit, (say that 5 times fast I dare you) where we had lunch They had every possible form of merchandise featuring poor Nessie in some pretty embarrassing poses.

Beautiful Loch Ness

And no sign of Nessie

Loch Ness is huge.....long and deep. 

From there it was on to Inverness, home of the round about.  We had a reservation at a city center hotel, the Mercure.  We inputted the address into our GPS and Vera, our ethereal voice started pouring out commands - 3rd exit at the round about, 2nd left, right where McGooney's barn burned down 12 years ago.  With Kat bravely navigating, we entered the maze.  The 3rd time we passed by O"Dougal's bar and pig bites, we began to believe that we were...well lost.  After eliminating 58% of the city streets, we accidentally came across the Mercure, making great time and getting there at 4:20 P.M.  Coincidence??? I think not.

Checking in we are half way through the paper work when the magic of Inverness continued.  Sirens blaring, staff downed ugly lime green bibs and said "it's a fire alarm and time to clear the building".  Ahhh, Inverness in the fall, standing out in a parking lot with hordes of bewildered souls listening to a shrill, ear piercing siren for 58 minutes while the local fire department clears the building.

What the heck????

Waiting for the fire squad to clear the building.  Jeff positioned himself to make a quick dash to the desk

Jeff enjoying a Irn Bru (pronounced iron brew)--Rebus' favorite Scottish Soda

The alarm stopped wailing and we were told that there was a "all clear".  I left Kathy and the horde in the dust and was the first one to burst through the door, took a stairwell 3 steps at a time to beat the rush at the check in desk.  Imagine my surprise to find a family(s) of 17 asians lined up at the desk...how do they do that??? 

We then finished checking in and went to our room for a well deserved break (nap).  I wanted to go to a Curry shop where my hero, John Rebus, a continuing character  in Ian Rankin books, dines.  Kat asked the counterman a question concerning the menu..he smirked and turned his back...(stupid Americans) and we didn't miss a beat turning on our collective heels and heading for the door.  We did find a old pub where the food was good, the beer better and the sticky toffee pudding that we have become addicted to was wonderful as per usual.

Overall.. another wonderful, but at times trying day in Scotland.

Stirling to Oban via Lock Lomond

Kathy here:  We left the Travel Lodge in Stirling, rested and refreshed and plotted a path to Oban, a town in the west of Scotland on the North Sea.  We already felt like there was too much Scotland to see and not enough time, but decided we wanted to spend most of our time around water.  Our road to Oban went through a national park, complete with campgrounds, and down the length of Loch Lomand, famous from the old song:

O ye tak' the high road and I'll tak' the low road
And I'll be in Scotland a'fore ye
But me and my true love will never meet again
On the bonnie bonnie banks o' Loch Lomand.

Anyway, Loch Lomand and the National park were wonderful even though the day was cloudy with misty rain at intervals.  We still had a great time, stopping now and then to take a walk, or rest from the stress of driving narrow winding roads on the left side with big trucks, "caravans" (trailers) and tour buses coming at us.  Good job, Jeff!!

We took our time and it was evening when we finally got to Oban.  It is a small village which looks out on a long round harbor with a view of the island of Mull. We had reserved a BnB and it was a great choice with a view of the harbor and the ferrys and other craft going back and forth.  We settled in, took a nap and waking, saw that the rain was more than a mist now. We put on our raincoats and took a walk to find dinner.  We got wetter with each step so took the first option, a hotel dining room.  It was very satisfactory, and when we walked back, the rain had stopped. 

"Fabio", actually not a bad little car.

A coffee shop where we stopped for a break.  Note the carpet is tartan

Loch Lomand

A family trying to enjoy a day at the park.  It was too cold so they built a fire

The blackberries were delicious

As we got closer to Oban, we saw the North Sea

Our BnB--Corriemar house

A gorgeous old house, furnished with antiques.  Built in the late 1800's

View from our window.....before the rain

The ferry went back and forth to the Isle of Mull and others

Channel marker

Lots of boats in Oban

Our wet walk

To a delicious reward