Thursday, September 6, 2018

From Oban to Inverness--Lochs galore

The sun was shining brightly as we left Oban after a hearty breakfast at the BnB.  Our goal was to drive the entire "Great Glenn" which is a long valley filled with lakes (lochs) that were formed by a giant glacier.  The Glenn runs from southwest to north east and ends in Inverness.  The inventive Scots also put canals and locks between the lochs so that there is a water passage all the way from one end to the other.  We drove over several one lane bridges spanning inlets and soon found ourselves on the shores of Loch Linnhe.





Jeff here - Driving through the Scottish highlands was easy on the eyes.  Around every turn lay amazing vista's, multi colored mountains that spanned the horizon, 59 shades of green, lochs that make Dorena, where we park our boat, look minor league, and flowers everywhere  Let's just say it was an enjoyable car cruise.

The only issue was driving on the left.  The roads were built from wagon tracks left from the 19th century.  Narrow? Not really as long as you are comfortable with a 14 inch margin of error on either side.  This is not an issue until you have a city bus, semi truck or a piece of farm machinery that spans one  and 1/2 lanes on a blind curve.  Choices are somewhat limited to hitting the curb or....well dying.
We chose the curb on more than a few occasions.
The intrepid driver.  Successfully avoided all hazards except the occasional left curb
Narrow with no shoulder
What happens when you hit the curb too hard.  This couple we met had to wait 5 hours for a tow.

We stopped at Fort William for a much needed break from the road where my knuckles almost lost their pale sheen and my pits dried out - yes, I will cop to fear.  Fort William was a picture postcard town.  Lots of cobblestone and old store fronts.  We stopped for coffee, (make mine decaf as I didn't need any more jitters) and enjoyed the locals speaking with such a strong Scottish accent that most words were indeterminate but all was harmonic.
A nice walking mall in downtown Fort William


This little boy really wanted to drive

Jeff meets a friend
After Fort William, we continued up the Great Glen and past Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in Scotland.  We stopped at a roadside memorial to fallen Scottish soldiers who had trained in the area.  It was a grand panorama of scenery from the hill where the memorial had been placed.


Ben Nevis



We cruised up Loch Ness with an eye out for Nessie.  No Nessie but lots of fellow tourons on the same mission.  We stopped at Drumnadrochit, (say that 5 times fast I dare you) where we had lunch They had every possible form of merchandise featuring poor Nessie in some pretty embarrassing poses.

Beautiful Loch Ness

And no sign of Nessie

Loch Ness is huge.....long and deep. 

From there it was on to Inverness, home of the round about.  We had a reservation at a city center hotel, the Mercure.  We inputted the address into our GPS and Vera, our ethereal voice started pouring out commands - 3rd exit at the round about, 2nd left, right where McGooney's barn burned down 12 years ago.  With Kat bravely navigating, we entered the maze.  The 3rd time we passed by O"Dougal's bar and pig bites, we began to believe that we were...well lost.  After eliminating 58% of the city streets, we accidentally came across the Mercure, making great time and getting there at 4:20 P.M.  Coincidence??? I think not.

Checking in we are half way through the paper work when the magic of Inverness continued.  Sirens blaring, staff downed ugly lime green bibs and said "it's a fire alarm and time to clear the building".  Ahhh, Inverness in the fall, standing out in a parking lot with hordes of bewildered souls listening to a shrill, ear piercing siren for 58 minutes while the local fire department clears the building.

What the heck????

Waiting for the fire squad to clear the building.  Jeff positioned himself to make a quick dash to the desk


Jeff enjoying a Irn Bru (pronounced iron brew)--Rebus' favorite Scottish Soda

The alarm stopped wailing and we were told that there was a "all clear".  I left Kathy and the horde in the dust and was the first one to burst through the door, took a stairwell 3 steps at a time to beat the rush at the check in desk.  Imagine my surprise to find a family(s) of 17 asians lined up at the desk...how do they do that??? 

We then finished checking in and went to our room for a well deserved break (nap).  I wanted to go to a Curry shop where my hero, John Rebus, a continuing character  in Ian Rankin books, dines.  Kat asked the counterman a question concerning the menu..he smirked and turned his back...(stupid Americans) and we didn't miss a beat turning on our collective heels and heading for the door.  We did find a old pub where the food was good, the beer better and the sticky toffee pudding that we have become addicted to was wonderful as per usual.

Overall.. another wonderful, but at times trying day in Scotland.

Tuesday, September 4, 2018

Stirling to Oban via Lock Lomond

Kathy here:  We left the Travel Lodge in Stirling, rested and refreshed and plotted a path to Oban, a town in the west of Scotland on the North Sea.  We already felt like there was too much Scotland to see and not enough time, but decided we wanted to spend most of our time around water.  Our road to Oban went through a national park, complete with campgrounds, and down the length of Loch Lomand, famous from the old song:

O ye tak' the high road and I'll tak' the low road
And I'll be in Scotland a'fore ye
But me and my true love will never meet again
On the bonnie bonnie banks o' Loch Lomand.

Anyway, Loch Lomand and the National park were wonderful even though the day was cloudy with misty rain at intervals.  We still had a great time, stopping now and then to take a walk, or rest from the stress of driving narrow winding roads on the left side with big trucks, "caravans" (trailers) and tour buses coming at us.  Good job, Jeff!!

We took our time and it was evening when we finally got to Oban.  It is a small village which looks out on a long round harbor with a view of the island of Mull. We had reserved a BnB and it was a great choice with a view of the harbor and the ferrys and other craft going back and forth.  We settled in, took a nap and waking, saw that the rain was more than a mist now. We put on our raincoats and took a walk to find dinner.  We got wetter with each step so took the first option, a hotel dining room.  It was very satisfactory, and when we walked back, the rain had stopped. 

"Fabio", actually not a bad little car.

A coffee shop where we stopped for a break.  Note the carpet is tartan

Loch Lomand

A family trying to enjoy a day at the park.  It was too cold so they built a fire



The blackberries were delicious



As we got closer to Oban, we saw the North Sea


Our BnB--Corriemar house

A gorgeous old house, furnished with antiques.  Built in the late 1800's

View from our window.....before the rain
The ferry went back and forth to the Isle of Mull and others

Channel marker
Lots of boats in Oban

Our wet walk

To a delicious reward

Saturday, September 1, 2018

Hitting the Road--Stirling Castle

After 2 days ( we needed 4) in beautiful, graceful, enchanting Edinburgh, it was time to move on into the next phase of our adventure.

We packed and had our breakfast at the Ibis we had called home, we checked out and walked the 6 blocks to Hertz.  They were busy yet I was impressed with how the agent took his time with each customer to go over everything concerning the lease, car and best route to take to get to your destination - I found myself not bristling over the wait but appreciating that we would get the same quality care when it was our turn - we did.

We loaded up the red Skoda Fabia, forever from now known as our own Fabio and headed out of town, driving on the left and going around the many roundabouts that seem to have been installed at every other intersection.  Fun to negotiate as you mentally compute "what f...ing lane am I supposed to be in" while transferring everything you ever knew or felt about driving on the right to now trying to drive on the left.  Not easy when the grey Audi behind you is riding your tail and blasting a ear shattering BEEP your way!!

We made it the 60 miles to Stirling while only getting lost once, quite the accomplishment I dare say.  Opps, I'm becoming Angelicized!  We drove up to Stirling Castle where so much history was recorded - think Braveheart, Robert the Bruce, the Jacobites and all the conflicts between Scotland and England.  In a lot of ways I felt Stirling Castle was superior to Edinburgh Castle, which we saw yesterday.  Lots of Docents were dressed in period garb with a fountain of information to bring stone and brick come alive.  I could feel the Palace intrigue.

I came across a stand where you can look up your last name and heritage and they would pull up the Coat of Arms and history of the folks that had come previous to yourself.  Turns out the Berger clan can be traced back over 3000 years and yes I purchased it just to be able to one up a certain brother in law of mine who is interested in Geneology.

We enjoyed the gardens, the views, the setting and the area.  So much so that we scrubbed the idea of driving to Oban and stayed in Stirling which turned out to be a good decision, as a hotel called "The Travel Lodge" turned out to be a good pick.  It was comfortable, clean, friendly and with a tasty kitchen. It wasn't "The Dome" but we didn't have to drive anywhere to eat there!



Through the gates

Grand decorations weathered by time

Many of Scotlands Kings were raised here

The village of Stirling

Guardian Statue

 Cannons to the left of me, cannons to the right


The Princess Garden

Roses and rockwork

It almost looks like the castle grows out of the mountain

Reworked tapestries with lots of Unicorns, the symbol of Scotland


The ceiling of the Kings reception room

The oldest remaining building from the 1500's

Archers had to aim through these holes